Figure 4. The Royal Palace at Nuku'alofa, Tonga. Built in 1867.
It was about this time that I had my first experience with prickly heat. Our quarters aboard the President Adams were extremely crowded. The bunks were stacked four high with a narrow passageway just large enough to squeeze through every second row of bunks. This was enough to give one claustrophobia, but at least it was bearable when we first left the States. As we neared the equator, however, the heat became almost unbearable.
Fresh air vents mounted topside diverted some air down a couple of decks to where my quarters were located, but the volume of air was terribly inadequate. The air was not pumped, but had a horn-shaped intake on deck that scooped the air in if the ship was underway. When anchored, unless a breeze was blowing, no air found its way below deck. To further compound the problem, one intake was piped all over the quarters into a myriad of smaller vents. One could barely detect a flow of air from the vent located nearest to my bunk.
The constant heat, coupled with a very high humidity and our tightly-woven, long-sleeved dungaree uniform, guaranteed perspiration on a 24-hour basis. This formed a rash over a good portion of our bodies that itched incessantly.
Scratching only irritated the situation more. Relief could be found by taking a shower, but only at a high price. As long as the stream of water was hitting the area covered by the rash it felt wonderful. The problem was that our showers consisted only of salty seawater, and when the shower was vacated, the intensity of the itching doubled! This was always a problem aboard transports in the tropics, but fortunately it would clear up a few days after leaving the ship.
On July 25th, we left Tonga, and three days later arrived in Suva, Fiji. Here we met up with the First Marine Division, a force three times larger than ours. Ships seemed to stretch to the horizon and included many destroyers and a few cruisers. We practiced making amphibious landings but didn't actually go ashore, returning instead to the transports.
On August lst, we left Fiji and finally learned our destination was to be the Solomon Islands.
Many years later Joyce and I returned to the Kingdom of Tonga and I enjoyed showing her around Tongatabu. This delightful little country, the only island group in the entire Pacific never claimed by a foreign power, has changed little over the years. Few tourists visit there, and it is not a stopover for travelers bound elsewhere. I showed Joyce the modest wood-frame Royal Palace, which still looked exactly as I remembered it. We also had an enjoyable visit with Sergeant Major Faleone Vai of the Royal Palace Guards, and we communicated with each other after our return home.
Figure 5. Len with Sergeant Major Faleone Vai (left), and other Palace Guardsmen. Royal Palace, Tonga, 1988.
We have also twice visited Fiji, and on both occasions we had the opportunity to tour this country and see what I had missed on my first trip there.